Quantcast
Channel: Why is the speed of oceanic waves not a constant like sound? - Physics Stack Exchange
Viewing all articles
Browse latest Browse all 5

Answer by anna v for Why is the speed of oceanic waves not a constant like sound?

$
0
0

Sound waves transfer energy to the molecules which energy moves , but the molecules stay put on an average position,

>A sound wave traveling through air is a classic example of a longitudinal wave. As a sound wave moves from the lips of a speaker to the ear of a listener, particles of air vibrate back and forth in the same direction and the opposite direction of energy transport.

Italics mine.

There is no collective mass motion,only energy transport.

While waves that travel within the depths of the ocean are longitudinal waves, the waves that travel along the surface of the oceans are referred to as surface waves. A surface wave is a wave in which particles of the medium undergo a circular motion. Surface waves are neither longitudinal nor transverse. In longitudinal and transverse waves, all the particles in the entire bulk of the medium move in a parallel and a perpendicular direction (respectively) relative to the direction of energy transport. In a surface wave, it is only the particles at the surface of the medium that undergo the circular motion. The motion of particles tends to decrease as one proceeds further from the surface.

The formula incorporates this observation.

You must have noticed the curls in breaking ocean waves.


Viewing all articles
Browse latest Browse all 5

Trending Articles



<script src="https://jsc.adskeeper.com/r/s/rssing.com.1596347.js" async> </script>